Summary
- This is an impressive printer, with vibrant colours and high resolution, which can print on almost anything.
- Whilst it is desktop printer, you need to allow for the extra space around it, especially front and back, to make use of the full size print bed. This may make it too big for some worktops.
- Whilst it can print on pretty much anything, which is impressive, the durability of the print varies massively depending on the material on which you print. You need to understand the limitations and extra steps you can take (sanding a surface first, etc).
- The sticker mode using the laminator allows you to make stickers that stick well to smooth surfaces and allows printing on objects that would not fit (mirrors, cupboard doors, computer cases, etc).
- The rotary attachment allows printing on tumblers and mugs, but again the durability is an issue, and prints may not be dishwasher safe.
Unboxing and set up
Warning, the box is heavy - not a one person lift. But it is easy to unbox. The step by step instructions for installing ink, cleaning unit, air filter, and so on are very clear. The calibration and testing takes a while, be patient. See unboxing video.
One of the key aspects is the space requirements. For the small bed you simply need space in front to open the front cover (as shown in image above). For the full size bed it claims to need 400mm front and back, which is a lot. It will not fit at the front of a typical 600mm work bench with enough space behind. It also claims to need 300mm left and right, which makes no sense. You have to be able to get to power/ethernet on left and cleaning unit on right, but there are no fans or vents, so this extra space seems unnecessary. In this case it will just fit sideways on a 600mm work bench with space either side for the full size print bed. Bear in mind you need to use the glasses when operating with covers open (i.e. full size print bed). As you can see from the image - mine is on a shelf on the floor now.
No mess
The instructions warn of using gloves, and glasses. They seem to imply the risk of some mess somehow, but so far it has not been a problem. Maybe during some maintenance or changing something, like ink, there is risk of ink on hands, so gloves may only be needed then. In normal operation it seems very simple and clean.
eufyMake Studio, and app
It connects via WiFi or Ethernet and is set up from an app using bluetooth. Annoyingly you need to create an account, arg!
Do not make the mistake of installing the iPad app on a Mac. It works but is clunky at best. The eufyMake UV Studio is what you need and that works really well.
Just to explain, unlike a normal printer, this is not installed as a printer on the system. You have to use the app to print. The reasons for this should be pretty obvious - the printer can print not just in CMYK, but White and Gloss, and complex arrangements of print order and thickness. A normal printer driver cannot handle this. It also needs print positioning.
However, the app is very slick, and allows images to be dragged in and positioned and scaled and flipped with ease. It handles vector formats such as SVG which allows for very precise and high resolution printing. Note the print quality setting is not default to High Quality for some reason and not even saved when you save a project, which is odd.
You can also add text, and set fonts, colour, size, rotation, etc.
There is a large library of artwork and graphics included, and apparently some AI thing which I have not touched.
Size of print area
The print area on the small bed is marked as 310mm by 90mm. On the large bed it is 310mm by 400mm. However it seems you can print up to 330mm by 420mm, so larger than A3!
However there is more to it, you can fit up to 100mm in the printer and print on top of it. Also, the top does not have to be flat, it can have 5mm clearance - i.e. I can print on the body of an iPhone case even though it has ridges around the camera hole raised above that.
There is also a film roll attachment allowing print on a continuous film allowing a much longer print than the 420mm limit of the large bed.
Print positioning
The first thing you do is put what you want on the printer bed, and have it take a picture. This shows on the app as an overhead view. It measures height for you, and shows the outline of the object on the print bed.
You then drag in images, or place text or artwork as you like. You can resize and rotate and flip as needed. It handles the fact images have transparency - using SVG is ideal, but PNG with transparency works just as well. You can see how your artworks fits on the object. You can zoom in and align precisely (the set up includes camera position calibration, so this is very good). You can add outlines or apply a cut out to a non transparent image, etc.
Types of print / ink setup
For each piece of artwork/text/etc you can set the way it is printed. The main thing is the layers of print. Typically you apply white and then colour on top. Even so, the white is usually around 3 layers of white and 1 of colour. You could do white, colour, and gloss for example.
They have thought about this - you can do colour, white, colour for printing on glass for example, or just colour then white.
You can fully customise the layer sequence and numbers as well.
But that is all flat. You can do flat raised which thicker colour to give a texture. You can also select textures!
Textures
You can select a textured effect and there are a library of textures, like crocodile skin, etc. Obviously this uses more ink and takes longer to print.
Opacity
Normally the three layers of white is enough to give a white background for printing colour and white images. This works well on a consistent background, even if dark. But it is not totally opaque, so if printing over existing artwork you need more layers of white to make it properly opaque. You can set the number of layers though. Ideally, don't print over existing artwork, or if you do, sticker mode may be best as stickers are very thick.
Print durability
This is where things get complicated. You can, indeed, print on almost anything, but it may not stick as well as you like. This was a tad disappointing, as I expected the cured ink to be much harder. It is actually somewhat rubbery and flexible. But how well it sticks depends on to what you are printing.
At one extreme, a coated (anodised?) titanium iPhone case is very smooth - you can wipe off the print. Even stickers will not stick at all - you simply cannot pull the backing off and leave the sticker!
Printing on textured services is a lot better, as is various bare metal. Printing on 3D resin prints works really well, and is hard and not removable with a fingernail. In these cases a hard edge, knife, etc, can take the ink off - though if deeply textured that may be difficult to totally remove it. This is pretty durable though.
In between we have things like glass, which is a problem in to which I go in to more detail below. It sticks, and is nice, but is not dishwasher safe by any means. There are some things that may improve this.
There are things you can do to help on surfaces that do not stick well - one is sanding or etching the surface. This is not always sensible, obviously. For the green key fob shown above, the plastic is shiny enough to not be very robust (can come off with a fingernail). Sanding the whole side does not look wrong, so that can help make it more adherent. Another trick is to coat in acrylic, but you do have to let it dry properly. I was hoping to find a hard spray-on coating, perhaps even UV cured, to test (suggestions welcome), but acrylic resin based coating is probably good enough. Obviously that is not going to work on a glass.
Stickers
Stickers are fun. The optional laminator with a roll of B film, and sheets of DTF (Direct To Film) A paper, allow you to make stickers. See video.The A film sheets are on a paper backing and have a protective layer you remove before printing. You are basically printing on a sheet of thin adhesive. You then put this through the laminator which sticks a thick soft film, the B film, on top. The sticker mode is an ink print type on the artwork, all artwork set the same, and prints a thick sticker on white background.
You can remove the paper back, and apply to any surface. The film is a bit stretchy which helps. You have to be carful to align as there is really no going back and re-positioning. You then rub down and peel off the thick film leaving a sticker.
This is ideal for cases where you want artwork on something that cannot go through the printer, e.g. cupboard doors, windows, mirrors, signs, etc. Obviously great for laptops.
This also works on shiny surfaces that don't print well directly. However, there is a caveat here for glass. Yes, the sticker sticks well and is robust, but it is not dishwasher safe as the heat melts the adhesive!
| To be clear, this is *MY* mirror, not someone else's |
Glass
The rotary attachment lets you print on tumblers and cups. The system is pretty slick - it measures it all for you and makes it easy to place artwork.It cannot handle a glass that tapers in at the top, but can handle tapering out. That said, I have whisky glasses (as per image) that taper in, but not a lot, and telling it the glass is straight did work.
The result looks pretty good, but can be removed with a fingernail, and is not dishwasher safe.
Proposed techniques to fix this include a bonding agent to lightly etch the glass first. Of course the only stuff I could find was a primer that is thick grey - leaving 24 hours and cleaning off did not look like the surface was etched, which is a good, but may mean it does not work. It is messy and slow.
Another proposed technique is flame treating the glass first - this is to change surface tension somehow.
Another possible idea I want to try is print a negative as a stencil, knowing it does not stick well, then use etching paste on the glass, then clean off the print.
** I will update this blog with results of etch and flame and stencil soon **
Maintenance
It has a load of maintenance stuff built in - cleaning the print head - automatic idle mode - a midnight cleaning cycle, and so on. It also has maintenance you can ask it to do, and can prompt you to do maintenance if needed. I have yet to change ink or cleaning module or air filter.
Costs
Obviously there are costs - the ink, cleaning pack, and air filter. I have no idea on the latter two in terms of how long they last. However, the ink is around 35p/ml.
When you print it works out the ink usage or each ink, and total, and shows before printing so you can assess costs. Also shows after.
Bear in mind the amount of ink is complicated - it is not just a matter of size, but how many layers. Stickers are thick and use a lot of ink. So it can be a bit counterintuitive.
Conclusion
The key message here is understand the limitations. Not just on size, height, and so on, none of which are a big issue, but especially in terms of the durability of prints on different materials. You also need to understand costs (e.g. stickers use a lot of ink, as well as A and B film).
Once you have a handle on those limitations and costs you can understand what you can print and where. Then you can get creative with a lot of options.